Korean Serums: Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Retinol… Which One to Choose?
The serum is the most "targeted" step of a Korean routine. Concentrated in actives, it addresses a specific concern: dull complexion, visible pores, dark spots, first signs of ageing… But you still need to find your way between niacinamide, vitamin C, retinol and the many star ingredients of K-beauty. Here's our guide to choosing the right serum and using it correctly.
Serum, ampoule, essence: what's the difference?
- Essence is the lightest: it hydrates and prepares the skin after toner.
- Serum is more concentrated and targets a specific need.
- Ampoule is often even more concentrated, for intensive use or a short course.
In every case, they're applied after toner and before moisturiser.
Niacinamide: the all-rounder
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most popular actives because it suits many skin types. Depending on the formula, it helps regulate excess sebum, refine the look of pores and even out skin tone.
Who is it for?
Combination to oily skin, uneven tone, post-blemish marks, visible pores.
Our niacinamide serums
- The COSRX The Niacinamide 15 Serum, with 15% niacinamide, designed for combination to oily skin.
- The Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% serum, combining niacinamide and tranexamic acid to target dark spots and uneven tone, in a fragrance-free, alcohol-free formula.
Find the full selection in our niacinamide collection.
Vitamin C: the radiance booster
Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant properties and its ability to revive radiance and even out skin tone. It comes in a pure form (ascorbic acid), very effective but more demanding, or in more stable derivative forms that are often gentler.
Who is it for?
Dull complexion, dark spots, tired-looking skin. It's best used in the morning, under sunscreen.
Our vitamin C serums
- The COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum, highly concentrated in pure ascorbic acid, for skin already used to actives.
- The Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Serum, with stabilised vitamin C and green tangerine extract, ideal for daily use.
Discover all our picks in the vitamin C collection.
Retinol: the anti-ageing expert
A vitamin A derivative, retinol helps boost cell renewal, smooth the look of fine lines and refine skin texture. It's a powerful active that needs to be introduced gradually.
Who is it for?
First signs of ageing, loss of firmness, uneven texture. Use it in the evening only.
Our retinol and retinal serums
- The Some By Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum, combined with hydrating and soothing ingredients.
- The Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum, with encapsulated retinol and fermented black rice, designed for night-time use.
More choice in our retinol collection.
Getting started with retinol
- Start 2 to 3 evenings a week, then increase gradually.
- Apply a small amount to dry skin.
- Wear sunscreen every morning.
- Retinol is generally not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding: ask a healthcare professional for advice.
Other Korean serum stars
- Propolis: nourishing and soothing. The Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum Propolis + Niacinamide combines 60% propolis extract and 2% niacinamide for a glowing complexion.
- Hyaluronic acid: hydration for every skin type, to discover in our hyaluronic acid collection.
- Centella asiatica: to soothe sensitive skin.
- PDRN: K-beauty's trending ingredient, which we cover in our dedicated article PDRN and Medicube.
Which serum for which concern?
- Shine and visible pores: niacinamide.
- Dull complexion: vitamin C or propolis.
- Dark spots: vitamin C, niacinamide + tranexamic acid.
- Fine lines and loss of firmness: retinol.
- Dehydration: hyaluronic acid.
- Redness and sensitivity: centella, soothing formulas.
How to combine several serums
- Vitamin C in the morning, retinol at night: the classic combination.
- Niacinamide: it fits in easily, morning or evening.
- Don't combine retinol with AHA/BHA exfoliants on the same night, especially if your skin is sensitive.
- Two serums maximum per routine, from thinnest to thickest.
FAQ: Korean serums
Can you use niacinamide and vitamin C together?
Yes, these two actives can generally be used in the same routine. If your skin is sensitive, you can alternate them: vitamin C in the morning, niacinamide at night.
At what age should you start using retinol?
There's no fixed age: it's usually introduced when the first signs of ageing or uneven texture appear, starting gently.
How many drops of serum should you apply?
Generally, 2 to 3 drops are enough for the whole face. Always follow each product's instructions.
Find your serum at MAAS K-Beauty
Explore our Korean serums collection and our selections by active ingredient to find the formula that suits you. Free shipping in France on orders over €70, or free Click & Collect in store.
Need personalised advice? Our team welcomes you at the MAAS K-Beauty shop, 178 rue Ordener, 75018 Paris, Monday to Saturday 11am–1pm and 2pm–8pm, and Sunday 2pm–7pm. More details on our contact page.
